My IS 350 was bought new 2 years ago and is now at over 37k miles. So far I’ve been doing oil changes through the dealer but for my next oil change, I want to do it myself. I went fully through two threads: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-second-generation/533088-oil-change-question.html and http://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-second-generation/276707-yet-another-diy-oil-change-for-is350-w-pics.html . Below are the “notes” I took. I plan to have a printout of this blog post and he OP’s original post for the actual procedure of the oil change.
1. Parts Needed
Element Kit – Toyota Part# 04152-YZZA3)
(Maybe) fumoto oil drain valve – makes changing oil easier and cleaner, makes it so oil pan bolts cannot be over tightened.
2. Tools Needed
The wrench – source of big debate. The OP had used a Oil Filter “F” Cap Wrench (from AutoZone) cost about $3:
But he said that it was a “bit loose for my liking. It got stuck a few times on the housing and had to use a screwdriver to help get it off. I’d used it in a pinch again, but will probably buy the toyota filter wrench(Toyota part #09228-06501) for next time. I think it would be hard to get a strap wrench up there and use it affectly without banging up your fingers.” However, a reply was received not to “pay the $30+shipping for the Toyota special filter wrench. It gets stuck just like the cheap one that used. I had quite a time getting it off the housing cover and had to pry it off with a hammer ” Someone else added that “when the filter wrench sticks I usually tap it with a ball peen hammer (very lightly) and it comes right off. YMMV. “
A comment came later (started w/ The hammer was hilarious ) which said that the Strap wrench dosn’t scratch anything, but you can use anything you want . I bought the one from AutoZone (part #25404) but that did not work either – as I mentioned above it slipped a couple times and I got scared of damaging the housing… So I still haven’t gotten it off. I think I am going to purchase and try out that Toyota one (part #09228-06501).
Someone else:I had to use a large adjustable wrench to get enough torque to turn the oil filter housing. I remember that being incredibly hard. I used two different types of oil filter wrenches before going to the adjustable. One strap, one metal.
The toyota filter remover is the same as the snap-on one, It is. The Snap-On piece just costs a lot more. Someone got the snap-on one for $18. A reply came that “This might be painful.” (referring to the much cheaper price he could have gotten it at?). He loved Snap-On, but thinks they are far from the least expensive solution for some things. I’ll still buy their sockets without batting an eye because they always fit in tight quarters, but some of their stuff is just plain ridiculous.
Finally, it seemed the most confident option was the Assenmacher Specialty Tools TOY640 wrench, fits perfectly, doesn’t slip, is strong and was fairly inexpensive. Bichon bought it from here: http://www.toolsource.com/advanced_search_result.php?search=1&query=toy640&x=0&y=0.
Still, after reading through the whole thread, dmLsix still wondering the size of the filter cap wrench: I’ve read pages and researched around the forums and I see some people say the 65mm filter cap wrench works and some say it’s the 63mm.. I even saw somebody say they used a 70mm lol…. Is it the 63mm or 65mm (14-flute) filter cap wrench?
Oil pan/bucket (holds 10 qts) (from autozone)
10mm socket (to remove pan under oil filter housing)
14mm socket (to remove oil plug)
torque wrench (to do 30 ft/lbs of torque)
did you have to re-lube the oil filter housing before screwing it back on? The only thing I lubed up was the new rubber ring around the housing after I slipped it on. dmLsix forgot to oil up the large O-ring that goes on the oil filter housing after he was done, should he be worried?